
I have to admit, I’m a sucker for a good designer / high street collaboration, from Stella McCartney to Viktor & Rolf, Celia Birtwell to Roksanda Ilincic. So the launch of the Mary Katrantzou for Topshop range was always going to test both my will-power and, inevitably, my credit card limit.
Ever since Lagerfeld back in 2004, some of the world’s most innovative and cutting edge designers have been queuing up to produce affordable collections in collaboration with the high street’s biggest names, in particular Topshop. Whilst some have been more successful that others at translating their trademark designs from haute couture to high street cut-price without diluting or compromising their vision, it’s clear that this lucrative selling channel is here to stay. And why not, it’s a win-win situation. Indeed, as Mary herself said in advance of the launch of her Topshop collection, the designers get to regain control of their most successful designs, often from the very companies that have been ‘paying homage’ to their trademarks and profiting as a result, get precious exposure beyond the high-end glossies, all wrapped up in a guaranteed healthy profit to plough back into developing and sustaining their mainline and often also couture collections; their fans, on the other hand, get to own a bona fide piece of that designer’s vision that they could not otherwise, in their wildest dreams, afford.
Whilst they are seemingly becoming more common with each passing each year – with Marni for H&M still to come next month – it’s increasingly clear that in this climate, the British public aren’t fooled by a name or endless reams of copy in magazines alone: compare the hysteria for Stella or Versace’s H&M collection to the leftovers from Madonna’s equivalent. Although the prices are a steal compared to their main lines, often collaborations are charged at a premium vis-à-vis that shop’s normal price. So for me to buy, it has to be truly special.
Well, Mary Katrantzou’s collection was definitely that. With her trademark bold and beautiful clashing magic-eye floral prints, it was clearly a full-throttle collection and I was very glad I’d set my phone alarm for launch day as even online it seemed to be pandemonium. Items were in stock, then as soon as you reach the check out they disappeared, then reappeared, only to vanish yet again. Though I didn’t manage to get the beautiful blouse, I did manage to get quite a few pieces I’d had my eye on: the strapless dress, the tunic and the scarf.
Of these, on paper I actually preferred the silk tunic print, with its beautiful pale purple flowers and insects. But in real life the style didn’t suit my shape and so I think it may have to be sent back, although I am loathe to do so. But I am definitely keeping the strapless dress. It fits beautifully, and the design is exquisite. Even better, with the press and celebrities falling for the limited edition lampshade dress, that this (cheaper) dress has largely been ignored which makes me very happy indeed; I’d be very annoyed if I’d spent £350 on a dress that was then everywhere. As it is, this dress will be perfect for both a summer wedding and holiday, dressed up with a sharp blazer or down with a faded denim jacket.
What do you think if designer / high street collaborations? Are they an affordable designer gateway or an overpriced vanity project? I’d love to hear your thoughts!